The saga of my backpack trip to the Indian Heaven Wilderness
September 2000

Here's the Story of our trip...

Indian Heaven - September 10 – 14, 2000

September 10 – Got a late start today, started out from Shelton (I had a commitment in Aberdeen the day before) and we were both kind of dragging because of the weather, but the forecast was clearing in the afternoon. After sixty miles of forest roads (most of which are one lane but paved) we finally arrived at the Cultus Creek campground trailhead in the pouring rain. There are very few things that are harder than setting out on a backpack trip in a downpour, so we both decided to take a nap to see if the weather would break. No such luck, so we just bit the bullet and hit the trail around 3:30.

The hike in to our first camp was short, only 2.5 miles, and the rain was persistent. We had already decided to camp at Cultus Lake, at a nice camp that I had seen last year and luckily, it was available. On the way in, we passed a couple that had given up and were headed out, but that didn’t discourage us, no way, we are tough! We set up camp in the rain (go figure) and were so depressed we just decided to skip dinner and hit the sack. I joined Erik in his tent, since I had only brought a bivouac sack (a sleeping bag sized Gore-Tex shelter.) A quick granola bar and a fitful wet night, with both of us convinced that we would just bag it and head out in the morning. It poured all night and everything was soaked by midnight.

September 11 – Wonder of wonders, when we awakened at 10 am it was a bright sunny day!  It was such a change from yesterday that neither of us could believe it. Not a cloud in the sky, and the temperature was probably close to 75°. So we spent the entire midday drying out our gear. What a sight, it looked like a yard sale!  Erik built a fire to dry his boots, and by 2:30 everything was dry and we were on the trail for a day hike to Lemei Rock. We attempted to summit Lemei from the east side, but there was a lot of moss on the rock and we both felt it was too dangerous. Our second attempt was from the north side up a skree slope, and we successfully achieved the false summit, which was just fine for us, as the view of St. Helens and Rainier and the wilderness was spectacular. Back to camp by 6 for dinner and early to bed. Our second night at Cultus Lake was a far cry from our first. I used my bivy sack for the rest of the trip, much to both of our pleasure.

September 12 – Another beautiful day and on the trail to Junction Lake by 9:30; what a relaxing pace this was, to sleep as long as we liked, no schedule, just relaxing and moving when we felt like it. An easy 2 mile hike brought us to another glorious lake and beautiful camp. After lunch and a visit from a very friendly family with a wonderfully friendly dog, we headed out for a day hike into an ancient extinct volcano crater called East Crater. After an exciting bushwhacking off-trail experience, we reached the rim of the crater and spectacular views of St. Helens, and Mt. Hood. Back to camp for a great trail dinner of beef stroganoff, corn, and berry cobbler for desert. Another early-to-bed night with a bright full moon and unbelievable star views.

September 13 – Amazingly, we awoke to another glorious day of sun and cloudless skies.  After a brief discussion, we decided to hike a little further today to Wood Lake so we would have a shorter hike tomorrow. While breaking camp, I tossed a rock aside that I had used to secure my pack cover and apparently hit a bee’s nest, because I immediately had three or four mad buzzing bees after me and was stung on the face. Boy, were they mad at me! 

Another relaxing morning, and we were on the trail by 9:45 and into camp by noon. Another fairly easy 3.5 miles to Wood Lake was just about right for us both. Took a relaxing stroll around Bear Lake on the way to camp. Found a great meadow camp and had the entire lake to ourselves, which immediately demanded a skinny-dip experience. There was a real sand beach, and the water was typically cold but the sun was warm and we both were very refreshed. Later in the afternoon the wind picked up and never quit all evening. This was very interesting, the winds were persistent, and we estimated them to be around 25 mph. Erik didn’t like the sound, but I found it soothing, it sounded like the ocean surf.

September 14 – I was awakened by some raindrops and very cloudy skies around 4 am, and had trouble sleeping after that, thinking we were in for quite a storm. The wind had continued, so around 6am I woke Erik and we both agreed we had enough sleep and would just as soon head out. We had a quick granola breakfast and were packed and on the trail by 6:45. Since sunrise was at 6:30, this was perfect, there was enough light to hike and we were treated to a spectacular view of Mt. Adams in the sunrise.

So back to the truck by 8:30 and on the road to the Northlake Tavern for pizza and a beer to cap off one of the most relaxing and enjoyable backpacking trips I can remember.